The free and sovereign state of ........ Oaxaca .

People had been urging me for years to check this place out . And I never really knew why . Yes, I had heard of and even prepared the mole for which they are famous, indulged in mezcal, chocolate and the delicious quesillo cheese a time or two 😉 But that’s about where my knowledge ended . I definitely was not aware, for example, that the people of Oaxaca resisted (ie. after repeated failed attempts to form an alliance with… ) Spanish domination through the colonial era and they were somewhat successful . This stunning part of the world therefore remains home to a substantial number of indigenous descendants, most notably the Zapotec and Mixteco peoples .  

Plagued by a grueling history of conquest, Oaxaca was finally declared the “Free and Sovereign State” after the Mexican Revolution . Much of this land has been fairly undisturbed by modern development and they do maintain semi-autonomous forms of self governance locally . . .

Hell — I couldn’t even get in at first !

Something had been calling me away from México City for a while and I finally was able to make my way down here . The drive was a bit treacherous but … absolutely breathtaking . I would definitely do it again! I’ve driven through and backpacked a lot of the terrain in the Southwestern part of the United States and it reminded me a whole lot of that … with a bit more color contrast and rugged thrown in the mix ! My kinda spot . So many cactus I had never seen before splattered across craggy high rock desert of varying colors — just exquisite ...

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It’s strange how deserts turn us into believers . I believe in walking in a landscape of mirages, because you learn humility. I believe in living in a land of little water because life is drawn together . And I believe in the gathering of bones as a testament to spirits that have moved on . If the desert is holy, it is because it is a forgotten place that allows us to remember the sacred . Perhaps that is why every pilgrimage to the desert is a pilgrimage to the self .
— Terry Tempest Williams

I arrive to the tiny village in the mountains that I will be calling home for the next little while just outside of Oaxaca right around sunset … and at first I couldn’t get in . Several townspeople had blocked off the area and were denying access to any unfamiliar people due to fears regarding the current pandemic . My español ain’t great but I was able to talk to one of the guys for a bit — not much luck . Eventually, after getting local contacts involved, we were able to negotiate my entry . . .

And let me tell y’all something — the energy in this part of the world is palpable and hits you immediately . I sensed safety and freedom and grounding — all at the same time . My whole body descended in a way that just wasn’t possible during months on months of lockdown in an unfamiliar urban area . My experiences with two different art residencies these past few months had also been less than desirable #SMH and so I was going rogue 😜 and solo down here, moving forward !

We ain’t got much choice sometimes than to allow the journey of life to take us where it will . It’s an “accept and move on” kinda thang . . .

I’m just grateful to have landed in this majestic and tranquil town and thrilled to finally have the time and space to explore new painting methods and do some more on-demand filming I can not wait to see the body of work that emerges from my time in Oaxaca and I hope that you feel the same ! Be sure to sign up for my weekly e-newsletter HERE if you haven’t already . . . because my VIPs always get first dibs on new work, exhibition announcements and periodic special offers !

Hope you stay in touch . In the meantime …. take good care of you ♡

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“The Eyes of the Future are looking back at us and they are praying for us to see beyond our own time . . . ”  

Terry Tempest Williams